Itinerary · Santiago de Compostela
3-day itinerary for Santiago de Compostela: the cathedral and Obradoiro, Mercado de Abastos, Alameda, Bonaval, Sar and the Cidade da Cultura, with tips for pilgrims.
This 3-day itinerary is for anyone visiting Santiago de Compostela for the first time, whether you have walked the Camino or are arriving by plane without having walked a single kilometre. The first day is devoted to the cathedral and the squares around it; the second to the market, the monasteries and the tapas streets; and the third to the Bonaval gardens, the church of Sar and the Cidade da Cultura.
From Santiago-Rosalía de Castro airport, on the outskirts of the city, you can reach the centre in three ways. City bus 6A links the terminal with Santiago and is the cheapest option. Taxis have a permanent rank at the terminal exit and take about 15-20 minutes to the centre. If you are continuing to A Coruña, Lugo or the final stages of the Camino, Monbus coaches also leave from the airport.
Day 1
Old town
The great square in front of the cathedral, surrounded by the Hostal dos Reis Católicos, the Pazo de Raxoi and the Colexio de San Xerome. This is where pilgrims end up lying on the ground gazing at the towers; go first thing or as evening falls, when it is quieter.
Old town
This is the pilgrims' goal and the heart of the city: a Baroque façade facing the Obradoiro and, inside, the Pórtico de la Gloria and the tomb of the apostle. Book the museum and rooftop visit in advance; the rooftops give a different view of the old town.
Old town
Two very different squares on one side of the cathedral: the Quintana, on two levels with the Porta Santa, and the Praterías, with its fountain of horses and the cathedral's Romanesque façade. A good place to sit on the steps and watch people go by.
Old town
The Plateresque building that closes off the square was a pilgrims' hospital and is now a parador. Even if you are not staying, you can peek into its courtyards and entrance hall to see what medieval hospitality was like.
Day 2
Old town
A granite market with stalls selling fish, shellfish, cheeses and Galician produce. Buy something to taste (empanada, tetilla cheese) or order at one of the taverns nearby that prepare on the spot whatever you buy at the stall.
Old town
A huge Benedictine monastery next to the cathedral, with a Baroque church with a grand altarpiece and cloisters you can visit without the crowds. It is one of the visits that tends to surprise people most.
Old town
The streets with the best atmosphere for tapas: portions of pulpo a feira, empanada, Padrón peppers and albariño or ribeiro wine. Stroll without hurrying and let the rain, if it comes, be part of the plan: the stone arcades help.
Alameda
The favourite park of the people of Santiago, with the Carballeira de Santa Susana and the Ferradura promenade, from where you can see the whole cathedral with its rear façade. It is the ideal place to say goodbye to the day in soft light.
Day 3
Old town
The convent houses the Museo do Pobo Galego, with its famous triple-helix staircase. Around it, the Parque de Bonaval is a sloping garden with quiet corners and views of the old town; next to it is the CGAC, the contemporary art centre by Álvaro Siza.
Old town
It tells the story of the Camino and the cult of the apostle, and helps you understand what you then see in the cathedral and the city. It is a short visit, perfect for a spell of rain.
Sar
A 12th-century Romanesque church famous for its leaning columns and arches, which look about to give way but have stood for centuries. You can walk there from the old town and the surroundings are peaceful.
Monte Gaiás
Peter Eisenman's complex at the top of Monte Gaiás is a modern counterpoint to the granite old town: a museum, a library and wide views of the city. You get there by city bus or on a long uphill walk; check beforehand which buildings are open.
Santiago de Compostela
To wake up a couple of steps from the cathedral and do everything on foot. The streets are cobbled, with slopes and steps, and in the evening the bars of the Rúa do Franco are lively, so choose your street carefully if noise bothers you.
A more modern, flatter area with plenty of hotels and restaurants, about 10-15 minutes on foot from the Zona Vella. Convenient if you arrive with luggage or are catching the train or bus.
A quiet setting next to the city's best-loved park, with views of the old town and walking access to the cathedral. A good option for anyone who prefers a greener environment.
Itinerary · Santiago de Compostela
Three days are enough to see the cathedral, the old town, the market, the parks and a visit or two outside the centre. With more time you can add excursions to A Coruña, the Rías Baixas or the Costa da Morte.
You apply for it at the Pilgrim's Office, near the cathedral, by showing your stamped credential. To obtain it you must have walked at least the last 100 km of the Camino (200 km by bike). Book a slot on your first day to avoid queues.
It is a rainy city and it is worth carrying a waterproof jacket. The arcades of the old town, the museums, the Mercado de Abastos and the taverns let you keep to your plan; save the views, Monte Pedroso and the excursions for clear days.